You call a locksmith, describe the lock, and within thirty seconds they say, "Yeah, we'll just drill it." No questions about the make of the lock, no attempt to pick it, no mention of alternatives. It sounds decisive. It should actually make you pause.
The quick version: drilling is a legitimate, sometimes necessary technique — but it's supposed to be the last resort, not the first move. A skilled locksmith tries non-destructive methods first because drilling destroys the lock cylinder, often damages the surrounding hardware, and always costs you more in parts and time. If someone offers to drill before they've even looked at your lock in person, they're choosing speed over skill, and you're the one who pays for that choice with a replaced lock you didn't need to buy.
What should happen before a drill comes out
A properly trained locksmith runs through a sequence: try the key if there's a chance it's just worn or dirty, inspect the lock for signs of a snapped key or foreign object, attempt manipulation or picking, and only then consider decoding the cylinder or drilling as a last option. Each of those earlier steps takes a few extra minutes but leaves your existing hardware intact.
Drilling should only be the answer when the lock is genuinely compromised — a broken internal component, a security pin that's seized, or a high-security cylinder where picking would take an unreasonable amount of time. In those cases, drilling isn't laziness, it's the correct call. The difference is whether it comes after an honest attempt at everything else, or instead of it.
Why drilling first is often about speed, not necessity
Drilling a standard pin tumbler lock takes two to four minutes. Picking the same lock might take five to fifteen. For a locksmith paid by the job rather than the hour, that time difference matters — and it's tempting to skip straight to the drill, especially on a call where the customer is stressed and just wants back inside.
The problem is that drilling isn't reversible. Once the cylinder is drilled, it's junk. You're now buying a new lock, sometimes a new deadbolt and cylinder set, when a five-minute pick job would have let you keep the one you had — including any matching keys for other doors in your home.
- Ask what they tried first. A confident, honest locksmith will happily walk you through the steps before drilling, even over the phone.
- Ask if the lock can be saved. If the answer is an immediate "no" without inspection, that's worth questioning.
- Ask for the make and model before assuming replacement. Many residential locks have replaceable cylinders, meaning the housing survives even if the core doesn't.
- Ask about the cost difference. Picking a lock typically costs less than drilling plus a new lock, so there should be a financial incentive to try the non-destructive route first, not against it.
When drilling really is the right call
There are situations where a good locksmith will recommend drilling early and you should trust that judgment. A key broken off deep in the cylinder, a lock that's been tampered with or sabotaged, a cheap import lock with unreliable pins, or a security cylinder that's been pinned specifically to resist picking are all cases where drilling saves time without sacrificing quality. The tell isn't whether drilling happens — it's whether the locksmith can explain, in plain terms, why this particular lock needs it.
A locksmith who can explain why drilling is necessary is worth more than one who's simply fast with a drill.
What a rushed drill job costs you beyond the lock
Beyond the price of a new cylinder, a botched or unnecessary drilling job can chew up the surrounding door material, misalign the strike plate, or leave metal shavings inside the mechanism that cause problems weeks later. If the locksmith is also careless about cleanup, you might be dealing with a sticky, grinding lock long after the invoice is paid. None of that shows up in the initial quote — it shows up the first cold morning your new deadbolt won't turn smoothly.
How to vet a locksmith before you're standing on your porch
The best time to check a locksmith's approach is before you're locked out, not during. Look at how a company describes its process on its services page, check whether they're transparent about licensing and training on their about page, and see if they cover your specific neighborhourhood through a proper service area page rather than subcontracting to whoever's closest. A company that's upfront about training and methods on their site is generally upfront about them on your doorstep too.
If you're weighing a lockout against a lock that might just need a professional once-over, our guide on what a Vancouver lockout call actually costs is a useful companion read — it covers the pricing side, while this post covers the technique side.
Locked out, dealing with a stuck lock, or just want a second opinion before you agree to drilling? Get in touch with The Vancouver Locksmith and we'll walk you through your options honestly, including whether your existing lock can be saved.
Frequently asked questions
Does drilling always mean I need a whole new lock?
Not always. Many locks have a replaceable cylinder, so only that inner component needs replacing while the exterior hardware and deadbolt housing stay in place. Ask your locksmith specifically whether your lock model supports this before assuming a full replacement is required.
Is picking a lock more expensive than drilling it?
Usually the opposite. Picking takes a bit more time on site but avoids the cost of new hardware, so it's often cheaper overall even though the labor portion may be slightly higher.
How do I know if a locksmith is skilled or just fast with a drill?
Ask what non-destructive methods they'll try first and how they decide when drilling is necessary. A locksmith with real training will give you a clear, specific answer rather than a generic "it depends" or an immediate jump to drilling. Our Vancouver locksmith FAQ covers more questions worth asking before you book anyone.
